King-ken

When your bowl arrives, the house etiquette at soupless dandan noodle specialist King-ken is to dig right down to the base and mix everything from the bottom up—the house sauce, seasoned ground pork, green onions, and straight thin noodles—at least 30 times. Thorough stirring allows the sauce and toppings to coat every strand of the pleasantly firm noodles, while the freshly lifted aroma of Chinese red Sichuan pepper sharpens the appetite.

Heat levels range from Level 1 to Level 4, centered on the standard Level 2. For those chasing more fire, options include Level 9 as well as the "SP (Special)," which triples the peppercorn punch with 20 times the sansho. Freshly ground morning peppercorns, chili pepper, and vinegar sit on the counter, letting you add aroma as you eat or introduce vinegar for a crisper finish. Extra green onions or celery bring fresh crunch, while an onsen tamago soft-boiled egg offers a mellow, coating richness.

Once the noodles are finished, diners often tip a half-portion of rice into the residual sauce and minced meat at the bottom of the bowl to create "dandan rice." Drizzling a little extra house sauce and sprinkling more peppercorn from the counter lets you savor every last morsel. With counter seating predominating and ticket vending machines accepting transit IC cards, it makes for a brisk, efficient meal at lunch or on the way home from work.